Log cabins are a trend. It’s an perfect option and there are a lot of styles which you can select from and this is what produces the option such an intriguing one. When you purchase at wholesale, you are able to spend much less. This option is most suitable for anyone who is prepared to purchase their logs at a cost that’s fair. It is also ideal for anybody who wishes to build many homes at the same time.
When you have the right plan, you will have an idea of what it is that you need even after you start shopping for the right company. You can purchase and then send the only things which you require for the job at hand.
Building for less
Building can be an experience that is not only rewarding, but also enjoyable as well for your whole family. If you do not plan, it can also turn out to be a nightmare. When you buy a kit that has everything included it can actually cost you more than when you get the materials for yourself.
To avoid this additional expense, it is reasonable to buy the logs at wholesale and save some cash. You can have these sent to you and taken right to the site.
There are several suppliers who can meet your purchasing needs at the lowest prices. As you make the purchase, it is important to make certain you can be able to customize the choice and fulfill the specifications that you really need.
The best suppliers need to have a great reputation in the business. Before you purchase, it is important to make sure that they are well known and that their products are of the finest quality. This is the only way in which you can end up with the best construction. It is always important to check the prices so as to be able to compare the kind of savings you will have the ability to make.
These kinds of structures are excellent for home offices, and fantastic garden buildings. It’s important to ensure that they are spacious and with a peaceful environment. The heavy materials utilized help to ensure they can be used all through the year. As such, the thickness is one of the most important things that should be considered.
The most important factor when making the purchase is understanding just what you need. It is important to make your specifications quite clear and include all of the features which you deem to be essential for you. Consider the windows and the door as well as all other security features that will keep you and your family safe.
A fire is needed in almost any backpacking, hiking, or camping survival situation. It can seem like a simple task building a campfire, but most men and women struggle building one. Moreover, it may be more challenging to construct a campfire if you run out of matches. Whether it is a campfire for cooking or for providing heat during cold nights, it is essential that you know the proper way to build a campfire, with or without games, when camping.
Nothing beats the appeal and taste of foods cooked over the campfire. The freedom to cook over an open fire now is a privilege due to limited areas of camping and declining firewood stocks in many campgrounds. This calls for utmost caution and respect.
Requirements for Building a Campfire for Cooking
Pay attention to the floor where the fire will be lit before starting to prepare the fire place. It’s recommended you build the fire over a stone. In case it’s impossible on a stone, you need to ensure that the base of the fire is on a bare mineral soil. When the time comes to put out the fire, a simple bucket of water will not do-have a fire pit mechanism in place. First, look out for previously established pits, if any, before scarring the area with more fire pits.
Campfire for cooking should be clean, and burning hot. Getting green timber from trees won’t bear fruit because of its fire burn badly and create unnecessary smoke. Call ahead to find out what is available as many people campgrounds supply firewood.
Strong winds are hazardous in cooking. And may cause sparks getting away, which may spark forest fire. Strong winds reduce firewood fast and offer much less cooking time. Thus, a wind shelter is critical to daunt important winds from interfering with your cooking.
These are small materials that ignite easily and quickly with a spark. The material have to be as dry and finely shredded as possible.
Medium-sized substances that would catch fire from tinder, quickly. Kindling material must be dry, small items in order to catch fire.
Building a Campfire for Cooking
When building a campfire for cooking, the purpose is to have all the wood turn to coal at the same time. This would produce an even fire with no flames going up to the meals or blackening your cookware. This also builds the longest cooking time in the fire produced.
The fire site should be located at least 8″ from bushes or any combustibles. Make sure no tree branches hang round the website. Use green logs or large rocks to produce a U-shaped perimeter around the fire area. If using logs to the perimeter, have them down from time to time. In the event of a breeze, have back end of fire place face the wind. Create some form of chimney; you may have a big flat rock put at the back of the fire area, to help direct the smoke up and away.
Laying the Kindling
Distribute the fire place with tinder. Place kindling material over the tinder in layers, interchanging management with each layer. You can use use of thin splits of wood or small dead branches. Do not put kindling materials the”teepee style”. Cover the whole fire place with the kindling stack.
The wood should have the same dimensions, as much as possible. It is possible to use hardwood or hardwood branches. When flames start to die down leaving largely white coals, remove the white coals by pushing them in the lower level at the front and back end in a higher level. This would level the rest of the coal to your liking. Set rocks or wetted green logs around the fire for placing the grill or toaster for cooking.
Best Method of Building a Campfire for Cooking
Even though the tepee method is more popular, the log cabin procedure is the best for cooking.
Log Cabin Method
You build a small tepee of tinder and kindling at the center of your fireplace. Then piled wood logs a foot or less apart in an interchanging pattern around the tepee in the shape of a square. The distance between logs allows for air circulation from bottom to top of the fireplace. Build the wood logs as big as you would like. Light the kindling in the middle. You can blow into the tepee if the flame struggles to set ablaze or dig small air holes beneath the bottom logs. Keep the fire at a reasonable and safe size.
This is accomplished by building a solid log cabin, with the largest logs at the base and something about the size of your wrist on top. The platform is for all those who want a nice bed of coals to cook on. You don’t need to wait for it all to burn down before you begin cooking.
The platform procedure is known as”upside down” fire when larger logs are used. It is upheld for its ability to burn for a long time, unattended. Don’t forget to put the largest logs on the bottom and scale to smaller stuff at the top. Light fire at the top. As you practice, you will figure out the perfect size of wood required to create fire that burns by itself, all night.
It can be slightly difficult learning how to create campfire using platform method. The trick is to create a large enough teepee on top in order to create a bed of coals that will be effective at burning down through the first layer, igniting it, building a larger bed of coals etc..
The Tepee Method
Then put it in the middle of the fire area. Lean wood logs on the kindling. Leave an opening at the teepee for light the pile of tinder in the bottom with games. The fire spreads to the kindling and logs once the tinder lights; providing you a excellent campfire. You may blow softly on the fire to get it spread into the kindling and wood. In case the fire goes out, add more tinder or kindling. When the blaze is moving, keep adding logs from the tepee pattern.
There are a bunch of approaches to build campfire, but the important thing here is to practice, find the method that most suits your cooking and you are comfortable with. You can even customize the flame to your unique needs on a particular night, Practicing the hard way, with Ferro rod, knife and tinder, and leaning to prepare your own wood with limited tools helps develop vital skills for survival.
To lots of people, tarantulas are disgustingly revolting because they’re hairy, stocky, and fearsome-looking. . .But to other people, they’re TERRIFIC! Despite their reputations, most tarantulas are harmless to humans and are popular in exotic pet trade. There are no true tarantulas which are known to have a bite that’s deadly to humans.
Some people even eat them. . .Yup, that’s what I said!
Tarantulas range in colors from brown, black and grey (very drab) to excitingly colorful kinds of metallic blue, white and black, bright orange, and cobalt blue.
Tarantulas are very often hairy and quite large. They don’t spin webs, unless they reside in a tunnel, because they hunt their prey on the floor. If they live in a tube, they’re known to line that tube with internet to catch drifting prey. They use their speed and ambush capabilities to catch different spiders and insects. Larger varieties are even know to capture lizards, birds and rodents.
My Story: When I lived in Australia back in 1994-95, I was on the phone with my mother in Canada as I had been wandering around the house. All of a sudden, I let out a huge scream and dropped the phone. I came back to pick up the telephone to describe to her that I just walked into the restroom. At the bottom of the tub was a huge, hairy spider about the size of a saucer (like it’s legs), and it was making a noise and leaping about 1 1/2 ft into the air.
I was so petrified, I did not know what to do. My mom was scared on the other end of the phone as I got a clear plastic container and hauled some holes into the base of it, and covered it up in the tub until my roommates came home, who were native Aussies…
They thought it was so funny I was so scared, but I had never seen one before, being from Canada! They safely let it out for me. Not my cup of tea, but a lot of people loves these little guys! I wish I would have considered taking a photo of it!
Tarantulas rely upon their thick exoskeleton for support and protection. The body length of tarantulas vary from 2.5 – 10 cm (1-4 inches), with 8-30 cm (3 to 12 inch) leg spans (their size when including their legs).
Conservation Status: For the most part, tarantulas do well. However, the Mexican red-knee tarantula is on the Critically Endangered list according to WWF. This is because urbanization, increasing tourism, and exploitation of wildlife are high-intensity threats to the area, as are road building, perennial plantations, and ranching.
It would appear to make sense to answer the question”Why are flamingos pink?” With”That’s just the way it is”. Elephants are gray, canaries are yellow, so why shouldn’t flamingos be pink? Well, there actually is a very good reason.
To begin with, young flamingos aren’t pink, they are gray (such as an elephant) for about the first few decades of life, after which they turn pink. Not all adult flamingos are pink either, though most are either pink or a shade of red near pink. Of the five species of flamingo in life, the Caribbean flamingo, is truly a very bright red red. In general, adult flamingos are red, pink, or someplace in between.
Genetics would seem to be the obvious answer, but it’s not the best one. There is the old saying”You are what you eat”, and flamingos are pink because of their diet. If you place a flamingo in captivity, and give it something to eat instead of its regular diet, the bird will so start to lose its coloring, and eventually become more white than pink.
A flamingo’s diet is high in beta-carotene, the exact same substance we consume when we eat carrots. Their normal habitat is in shallow lakes and wetlands, where fish have a tendency to thrive. Flamingos also eat algae, another source of beta-carotine and carotenoid pigments (red). When you think of it, someone who likes carrots and eats a few a day can take on a slightly orange color for their complexion. That actually happens, and isn’t unhealthy though it may look so.
Now when someone asks you “Why are flamingos pink?” , you can honestly say it is because they eat shrimp. You can go into some detail with the cartenoid bit if you desire, but for our purposes, just saying fish should suffice. Then if you’re pressed, you can mention cartenoids and beta-carotine, as if that’s something everybody should already know!
If the person still does not believe your answer, you can let them know that flamingos also fly and march, two more details about flamingos that definitely are true. We’re so used to seeing flamingos from the zoo just standing on one leg (it is the most comfortable way for them to stand), or as lawn ornaments in the area, we forget that they are quite capable of flight, and in fact fly from one location to another in huge flocks. Insofar as marching is concerned, if you see a group (actually a colony) of flamingos on the floor, and observe them over a period of time, you will finally see them march.
It’s just as versatile as it’s cheap and it can be served with a lot of different sauces. After, however, are several incredible reasons why this yummy dish ought to be made a routine part of your daily diet.
For active people, this is one of the most mobile foods on the market. As an example, if you regularly pack your lunch for work, it is easy to store this in a policy dish and rewarm it in lunch time. This will offer a hearty, filling meal which will provide you a great deal of energy and at a minimal price. Bringing leftover pasta to function is infinitely less expensive than paying to have someone at a regional deli create your lunch for you.
Another significant benefit which you could benefit from this food is the capacity to create vegetables tasty. As an example, for those who have a difficult time getting your kids to consume a great deal of produce, this is a excellent way to sneak a vibrant selection of nutrient-dense veggies into your kid’s meals. Your little one will hardly know you have diced up peppers, zucchini, tomatoes and olives to this dish.
There isn’t any way to overstate the fact that pasta is remarkably affordable. Moreover, one little box can go a very long way. For families which are continuously trying to eke it out, this is the best food for ensuring that everybody is able to sate themselves at dinnertime, every time.
Bodybuilders load on this carbohydrate with good reason. It breaks down to lots of usable energy. Whether you’re presently working in the gym to build up your mass or just need more fuel to get you through the day, begin munching on this simple food at lunch time and you’ll realize that you have more stamina and better focus for hours and hours.
People should be aware they don’t always need to cook this dish at home so as to recognize its many remarkable benefits. You may enjoy how simple, portable, flavorful and filling pasta is simply by taking your family out to a restaurant which serves Italian food. On top of that, you can take any leftovers you must lunch with you the following day, so you may enjoy the succulent and perfectly mixed flavors of the popular cuisine all over again.
Salamanders can actually live for a lengthy time. However, this can only be achieved if you take good care of your pet salamander. If you want your pet to live a longer life, then below are some guidelines on how to care for your salamander properly:
Number 1: Before you acquire a salamander, you need to secure a particular collection permit from your local branch of wildlife and conservation department. Your regional authority might be issuing this permit to allow you to keep a salamander at home.
A tank that measures 1×2 feet is enough for a little to midsize salamander. However, it is possible to go to as large as 3×4 feet. It needs to be tight enough to keep the salamander from escaping.
Number 3: Make sure you fill the tank with soil or sand for around 4 inches deep. You may also use an old cake pan or loaf bread pan so that it will fit well with the height of the sand. You need to provide an appropriate substrate for burrowing too.
Number 4: Place fresh water into the container. Salamander loves to remain in damp, dark and green areas; hence you may put green plants inside the tank. When you add water inside the tank, the runoff will eventually keep the sand wet.
Number 5: Secure rocks and other things that can be used as colors like driftwoods and leaves and place it inside your tank. But, ensure you set it in an organized fashion so that it won’t ruin your setup.
Number 6: Salamanders produce excess waste. Because of that, you want to clean the tank every now and then. If you are unable to do so, ammonia will lodge within the tank causing your tank to be polluted.
Number 7: See to it that your tank is always dry for terrestrial terrarium, but keep your substrate slightly damp. If you’re keeping semi-aquatic salamanders, be certain that the land part is moist, but not submerged in water. Meanwhile, the water on the wet-side should always be clean.
Number 8: Salamanders can be kept in room temperature. Normally, salamanders have sensitive skin and they have the tendency to acquire chemicals instantly. Thus, they don’t require certain UV lights. Instead, see to it that you rotate the daylight and dark cycle to imitate their natural environment.
Having a pet at home may wipe out your stress and give you a different sense of happiness. Surely, you will discover a rewarding moment with your own salamander. However, as soon as you have your own salamander, be certain that you don’t forget your responsibilities as a pet owner. Take good care of your salamanders well so that they will live long and happily with you.
Iguanas are magnificent reptiles and possessing them means understanding them. I highly recommend doing your own research as unfortunately some pet shops will tell you what you would like to hear to be able to make”the sale”.
Here are 5 quick and easy iguana care tips:
I highly recommend starting your iguana out in a 20 gallon aquarium (or its equal). Before bringing him/her home, make sure the enclosure is ready for housing. Ensure that your iguana enclosure has UVA and UVB lighting, heat lamp (I do not recommend”heat rocks” as reptiles in general tend to stay on them and can burn), hide box (babies will hide) and a water container big enough for your iguana to completely submerge in (they love water).
After bringing your iguana home, place it in it’s already prepared enclosure and let it settle in for a day or so. It’s imperative to allow your new addition to acclimate to its new surrounding. This can help”tame” your iguana making him/her more trusting and secure.
Being a tropical to sub-tropical species of reptile, high humidity within the enclosure will be essential (80% or higher), as is proper temperature. Temperature during the day will have to be approximately 88 – 93 degrees (f). At nighttime, lower the temperature to 75 – 78 degrees (f). Use a UVB”black light” to accomplish this and put it on the opposite side of this”day” lamp.
Do not be alarmed if your iguana shy’s away from food for the first few days. This is very common until acclimated to its new environment. It’s still crucial to set their food inside their enclosure. Start them out with finely cut romaine lettuce and red cabbage (they love romaine lettuce) for a few days. This will”break them in” and prompt them to feed.
*80% vegetables (clover, romaine lettuce, squash, green beans, peas, mustard greens, collard greens, kale and turnip greens).
*10% fruits (melons, bananas, grapes, strawberries, apples and pears). 1 flower to avoid is the azalea.
In its simplest form: 80% vegetables + 10% veggies + 10% flowers = 100% nutrition!
Maintaining your iguana enclosure clean is quite important! If their enclosure is filthy, your iguana can become susceptible to parasites. Parasites can and eventually will cause illness or worse kill your iguana (s). If you see fecal matter, rotting food, or clouding in their own water, clean the enclosure immediately.
To conclude, Mimicking character is the surest method of keeping your iguana healthy and happy.
As time goes by, you won’t believe your once small lizard is now as long as you. Once your iguana matures, you’ll feel as if he/she a part of the family!
The last step is to locate a excellent exotic veterinarian for your iguana. It’s nice to know that if something should ever go wrong, you have an exotic veterinarian who knows that your iguana and what is needed to keep them healthy and happy.
Substrate is a significant concern, as well, and a point of great contention in the leopard gecko community. Some substrates are regarded as safer than others, while some are downright dangerous. There are a few that people have varying viewpoints on, such as sand.
Your lizards won’t do well on bare glass, so it is a good idea to provide them with something to live on. There are many different options available, from newspaper to sand to rock to wood chips. You can find many of them in your home or local pet shop. However, don’t assume safety.
Some are more convenient than others, and some are actually hazardous to your lizard and can cause considerable health problems. Do not assume that just because a substrate is supplied in the pet store, it is going to be safe. Even bedding labeled for leopard geckos may not be a fantastic idea.
Leopard geckos should never be housed on cedar or pine, since these aromatic forests are poisonous to them, and to nearly every other small animal kept as a pet. The substances that maintain these wood chips smelling good are also toxic when inhaled in large quantities or when eaten.
Bear in mind that there’s a good chance that your pet will consume some of its substrate when it catches insects, or in an effort to increase its calcium levels.
This trend is one reason that some people decide to bed their lizards on special calcium-rich sand, as it provides a calcium supplement when ingested, and will not be poisonous. However, there is some disagreement about the digestibility of the substrate, in addition to concern over the use of other forms of sand, because they can cause blockages of the digestive tract.
Health problems may occur with sand beddings, most commonly in young geckos. Aquarium gravel and walnut shells may also be dangerous, as they are small enough to eat, but not big enough to pass efficiently through the digestive tract.
If sand is selected, make sure it’s the best sand you can find, as opposed to a coarser builder’s sand, and supply regular and copious calcium supplementation to discourage your lizard from eating it. Many people successfully keep their animals on sand without any problems, but they must pay careful attention.
If using paper, such as paper or paper towels, make certain it’s blank, or any inks used are non-toxic. This substrate has the advantage of being extremely easy to clean. Just remove the paper and add new substrate whenever it’s dirty. It is not a very natural looking choice, however.
Bark is usually a bad choice, being hard to clean and easy to consume. Reptile carpet, especially made to be used with snakes and lizards, is a washable, easy to clean substrate that comes pre cut into the most popular tank dimensions, but does not offer a natural appearance.
Some people also choose to use ceramic or slate tiles, since these are relatively natural in appearance (unglazed ceramic is better for this than glazed) and offer flat basking surfaces without the danger of substrate ingestion.
Regardless of what substrate you opt to use, make sure it’s clean and free of dangerous objects or substances before putting it in your terrarium. Decide whether you want to simply have the ability to clean it, or if you’ll need to replace it if its dirty, and if a natural look is a significant priority. This will say the best bedding to your geckos.
Every year, ball python breeders are coming out with a new colour or pattern morph to satisfy the needs of keepers and breeders alike. During the last few years, there has been a surge in producing various color or pattern morphs, which would be the envy of the snake world. These can cost upwards of tens of thousands of dollars. There are still plenty of normal ball pythons being bred in captivity for the pet but there’s definite change on the market.
A growing number of people today are keeping reptiles; specifically snakes in general as bits of living art. Philippe de Vosjoli has been a source of not only reptile keeping data but also a source of inspiration for many keepers today. Philippe educated us then and a natural environment is the very best way to celebrate our reptiles.
Reptile collectors today are not satisfied purchasing a snake, placing it into a fish tank with a screen lid, and a heater. They see their reptiles as an investment and want to display them, as they would a Picasso painting. We still see the typical buyers of reptiles within the pet industry but there’s a definite increasing percentage of those that are buying the higher end or more costly morphs so as to create their own artistic statement in there home or office.
Solving the mystery
Keepers are way more knowledgeable today as we all are about the care specifics of reptiles. Over the last three decades, lots of individuals have learned, with much more knowledge about their preferred reptile they could make informed decisions about which product(s) will provide them not only a better environment but also a better way of reptile keeping. Nowadays more keepers are recognizing that it is not about just captive care of reptiles generally, but about the natural history of the entire genre, which is currently making a difference in how they maintain their snakes. Using the ball python for instance, many keepers thought for years that this species was just a fossorial snake. Now we know that ball pythons from some areas climb into small shrubs and spend time there off the floor. With the trend of creating a more natural environment for our snakes we are observing new behaviors; I would be ready to say, if the reptiles were bred under these conditions we would also see an increasing trend towards improved breeding success.
Product manufacturers are also more aware of the increasing trend also. They now create a better line of goods to satisfy the needs of the discerning keeper. With the manufacturers understanding just as much if not more about our reptiles, we are not looking through a bay window on a large environment but a microscope into the world which makes up the microenvironment of the reptiles we keep. With this understanding, we have the ability to provide a much better captive environment, one highlighting the snake, as opposed to simply keeping it alive.
Many parameters enter this type of environment. Previously, all we had were fish tanks with screen lids as I’d mentioned earlier. Now we have plexiglass enclosures, which are simpler to maintain. Plexiglass not only is easier to heat but in addition, it retains the humidity necessary for keeping tropical species like the ball python.
Besides the introduction of new materials such as plexiglass for the enclosure, we now have a firmer grasp on our understanding of plants, substrates, heaters, and various other pieces of equipment which are required to keep a wholesome atmosphere for our reptiles. With all this knowledge available to individuals we still see the most common mistake with the new snake keeper.
They purchase the snake and what they think are the right stuff for your environment and then put all of this to the old kind of fish tank enclosure. The significant issue with maintaining most tropical creatures in this type of enclosure is that there’s a huge quantity of air exchange when screen lids are used. If you reside in a dry area like myself this sort of enclosure will need misting numerous times a day. This is a very time consuming procedure. If you have made a higher end investment this is a crucial part of captive care to mist the snake and monitor its environment. Using the right enclosure such as the ones made by Ricky’ s Reptile Enclosures will save you from having to experience this issue.
Now you know which enclosure to buy, but the fun does not stop there. These are cheap and easy to clean; hence, they make sense for the breeder attempting to keep costs to a minimum. Breeders use either pine shavings or newspaper to keep their snakes. The showcase snake though will not be display properly on those substrates. To show off the colors and patterns of the higher end morphs or even the’ordinary’ ball python we suggest going with a planted vivarium type of setting.
The Right Plant
The planted vivarium is not as hard as it might appear, it is actually an issue of plant selection, positioning, and using the right soils. I use organic potting soil that is pearlite free and landscape the enclosure so the back of the enclosure is a little graded or sloped towards the front. The organic potting soil is fine on its own but to actually get a nice look to the total vivarium I put a layer of orchid bark or cypress mulch on top.
Not only do plants help produce oxygen within the enclosure, they also provide a degree of humidity as does the soil/mulch mixture. Delicate ferns and other such plants won’t stand up to a drifting P. regius.
We must also be careful of any plants which may be toxic to a reptile. And of course the fact that many of the plant recommendations you see online sound great. But what they don’t tell you is that their recommendations are actually bushes that can become extremely large. For instance, one recommendation I saw was for Callistemon, which they had misspelled as Callistemom commonly called bottlebrush. Most sites list this as a TREE, which gets 10-12 feet in height. The other one that struck me as odd was that the recommendation of Bougainvillea, which has very sharp thorns among the limbs. Why would you advocate that to get a reptile or amphibian enclosure?
Here is a list of non-toxic plants that you can use without fear of them growing into trees or stabbing a wandering snake. Pothos Epipremnum pothos aureus, Liriope Lily turf, & Aspidistra Cast Iron plant are all plants I have used inside the vivarium itself and have not had any issue. Some mosses may be applied as ground cover too but I have never used them before so I cannot make any recommendations . Aside from the plants, add a sandblasted grapevine bit angled from one of the bottom corners of the enclosure into the opposite top corner diagonally so that the snake can decide to be either higher or lower. I have yet to find a branch be provided that was not used at some stage.
You must also offer some type of hide area inside the enclosure. Personally, I like the half logs that are sold for this purpose. Purchase one that the snake can input and when coiled their body should encounter the sides. This is a critical piece as it allows the snake to feel secure.